- Everyone pretty much knows how to fit a Mortise & Tenon joint together but in case you don’t or forgot here’s how it goes when you push a tenon into the mortise it should just slide in with a slight bit of friction, if you need to force it, it’s too tight and if it can move side to side or if it wiggles it’s too loose. How you glue it and clamp it is just as important and maybe more the first thing I like to do is put a 1/16 chamfer around the end of the tenon so it helps guide it in now you’re ready to glue.
Place a bead of glue around the inside of the mortise just inside then use a small dowel to move the glue around the inside wall after the glue is spread around start applying glue to the tenor starting with the end grain then use your glue brush to cover the cheeks and sides of the tenor then fit it into the mortise. It’s important to use this method for two reasons one it keeps it neat and minimizes the chance of getting glue on the outer surfaces and number two it prevents the joint from future failure. Here’s the reason behind this theory, when you push the tenon in the glue is pushed to the bottom of the mortise and absorbed into the end grain pulling as much of the glue into the fibers as it can and thereby absorbing the glue that should be left behind to give strength to holding the cheeks so but applying glue to the end of the tenon the fibers get all the glue absorbed before it can be pulled from the sides of the tenon. Now comes the clamping, after the joint is closed all you need is ¼ to ½ turn on the clamp if you have to tighten it any more then that something’s not lined up correctly or the Mortise & Tenon is too tight. As a side note when edge gluing two board all you need is enough clamp pressure to make the boards touch so the seam is gone then all that’s needed is about ¼ to turn this should give you about 40 Pounds of pressure at the joint for a 4/4 board but when gluing thicker boards you need a little more clamping pressure so for 5/4 I like to see about 50 psi or ½ turn and 8/4 I go to 60 psi ¾ to on full turn.
Up until now its been hit or miss when I come to my old blog site mostly because I have been out in the shop building, editing my YouTube videos, shipping special orders or working on the new web site. I will at least try to enter some of the articles from the website here from time to time. Jump over to Sandhill Woodworks to see more.
Here is the most recent one.
How to make a “drawbored mortise & Tenon joint”:
Once you have your mortise and tenon ready to install after dry fitting drill two holes through the mortise piece without the tenon making sure you go deep enough to penetrate the material on the other side of the mortise by the thickness of the outer wall of the mortise. Dry assemble the joint and use the same brad point bit you just used to drill the hole now locate and transfer the hole centers in the tenon don’t forget to clamp the joint before you mark the tenon. Disassemble the joint measure 1/16” to 1/8” back towards the shoulder and mark an offset on the tenon directly in line with the mark you just made with the bit. Drill the holes in the tenon at the new offset marks. Before you drive your pin into the hole you need to taper it at least enough to pass through the mortise and half way into the tenon (if you don’t do this the pin will not past the offset and you will break the pin or the tenon). Hammer it Home! Did you forget to put the glue in the joint? Not a problem, you don’t need it. When the pin contacts the offset hole you will actually notice it starts tilting slightly. Once you reach the other side of the tenon, the pin should straighten out when it bottoms out you will know by the sound and you’re done. This joint was used hundreds of years ago in ship building and only in the 18th century was it used in furniture building. Today it is simulated to give an astatic effect to furniture Green & Green employed this in their design.
After two months the build is done and tested now all that is left is to disassemble ease the edges then sand and apply a finish the finish will be BOL and back togather just in time to get some time to use it before going the school in SanDeago.
The control over the cut is unbelivable
Three years ago I would never dreamed I would be interested in Marquetry also spelled (marqueterie). Back then I thought it was gaudy, loud and not at all attractive I still do not care for the 16th century Florence and Naples designs with Marquetry but I do highly admire the craftsmanship required to produce it. I think it is the furniture design itself that I do not care for because of the aftermarket knock offs that use painted on designs that try unsuccessfully to replicate it. After seeing a few simpler designs on some Arts & Crafts furniture using inlays I began to open my mind to some of the possibilities that could incorporate “Marquetry” into “Arts & Crafts” furniture. There is also a vast amount of information out on the internet this link will open another page to the “American Marquetry Society” and explains the basics in the form of a beginners guide and is a very good read if you are considering taking up this art form. My journey began when I found a few guys that were building their own “CHEVALET” and going to attend ASFM “American School of French Marquetry” in San Diego California that was almost two years ago. Both of them attended the school about a year ago but I was not able to attend, “life just gets in the way sometimes” but now that my journey has resumed I am almost finished with building my CHEVALET and I am registered for the February class at ASFM along with my wife so it looks like we will get some practice using our newly build CHEVALET before attending classes, how lucky are we? Its really close to being finished I hope to have it finished in time for thanks giving.
We all screw up from time to time and I am no exception today I was making what has been termed “Tumblers”. They are small parts so the use of the table saw was not an option for me so I had to make the parts from larger stock that I could cut off and clamp to drill the center after cutting a dado on each face of the stock. My mistake was to not split it in the center and then drill it so I ended up with the matting dadoes on the wrong side and if I turned them around the round holes were on the wrong side. I think its time for a few days off.
Its been a busy 4 or 5 days we picked up the new AC/Heating unit so this week will will be devoted to installing that. I have a set of shelves to build and before I can get back to the shop that has to be finished but here is how far I have come on the how far I have come on the “CHEVALET” build.
OK We are all signed up for ASFM “American School of French Marquetry” with Patrick Edwards at the helm it will be a great experience. The course is French marquetry pictures in wood: design considerations, making the veneer packets, cutting techniques using the “chevalet”, assembling the picture, gluing the finished marquetry panels, and finishing. The Boulle Technique stage involves cutting several layers of veneer or other materials simultaneously, using perpendicular cutting. This technique produces both a “positive” and a “negative” image of the design, each with a different background.
While I am waiting for the rods to come I thought I would play with the seat it slides forward and back. Its my version of a Sam Maloof inspired chevalet seat. The foot peddle and lever arm are done I just need the holes drilled for the leaver as well as the wheels then I will mount the lever in the mortise made in the bench we are getting close all that is left is the saw and tune up.
I completed the last work on the router table a few weeks ago and started on the first of two projects that will be done at the same time because of the things needed to be done. Joint and Plane a lot of 8/4 stock.
The first project is a cabinet makers bench but a little different from most. I am using the “Veritas Wonder Pups” along with the “Veritas Bench Pups, Pair” in place of the end vice with dogs (sometimes called Wagon Vice). I will have a “Leg Vice and Sliding Dead Man” in addition to the Pups I will use the “Veritas Surface Vise” But for now I have started to build a “chevalet” which is what you see in this photo. By working on it for a while I’m hoping it will add value the school we will attend in Feb to learn more chevalet de marqueterie.
Here it is all done
This item is for those of us that can not cut a straight line but want to use dove tail joinery on our projects such as draws, boxes and case sides. The one I chose was the 14° Guide, solid brass and clamps to boards 1/4″ to 1″ wide.My saw is 2″ x 8-1/2″ with 22 tpi, dozuki tooth form. and preforms both crosscuts and rip cuts.The saw is held by rare earth magnets covered with low-friction UHMW plastic to keep the saw aligned.After I put it through its paces I will post a review along with a short or long video telling how I like it.